A Ramble on the Ramblas

One of the world’s most famous promenade, Las Ramblas, remains active and crowded with locals and visitors around he clock. Strolling down this avenue gives you plenty for all your senses: from newsstands, caged birds, flower stalls, street performers, fortune tellers, painters, human statues to sex shops, beggars, thieves and whores. There’s a bit for every taste!
The name comes from the Arabic ramla which means dried up riverbed. A stream actually flowed down from the Collserola hills to the sea just outside the medieval defense walls built by Jaume I in the 13th century. In 1366 the river was paved over, as a result of being clogged up with garbage –which explains its wavy course—and created a link between the harbour and the city, basically the present Gothic quarters. In the 16th century, convents, monasteries, a university were built (and later demolished) giving their names to the five different Ramblas: Santa Mònica, dels Caputxins, Sant Josep, dels Estudis and Canaletes. By the 19th century luxurious balconied mansion were built, trees were planted, iron lamp-posts were erected to replace the former gas ones giving it its present look. Today, the zigzaging boulevard, Barcelona’s landmark, is lined with hotels, mansions, shops, restaurants, fast-food joints, and some important institutions such as the Liceu Opera House, the Plaça Reial and the Boqueria Marquet.The tour starts at the Monumento a Colón (Columbus Monument) near the port at the bottom of the Ramblas. [Metro Drassanes, green line #3]. Behind us is Moll de la Fusta, a promenade that goes from Columbus Monument to the Post Office and then towards the beach at Barceloneta. It is composed of small bridges around palm trees. Along the timber wharf you'll come across a one-storey building on the top of which is a giant crayfish designed by Xavier Mariscal who also created the 1992 Olympic mascot "Kobi", a friendly smiling dog. Still further behind, is the post-Olympic Maremagnum where you'll find the Aquarium, the Imax Cinema, shopping arcades and on the first two floors of which, at night, there is a wide selection of free-entrance discos. From here, you can also ride the cable car that slides to Montjuïc or take a double-decker Golondrina that sails along the port.
The Columbus Monument, erected in 1886 for the 1888 Universal Exhibition, commemorates Columbus’ return from his first journey to the New World in 1493. After his expedition, he was received by the Catholic Kings in the Salon Tinell in the Plaça del Rei of the Gothic Quarters. One can take the elevator ascending 200 feet (60m) to a small platform from which one can get a view of the port and the city. The bronze statue of Columbus pointing at the sea –ironically turning his back to his new discovered land—was designed by Rafael Arché. The pedestal, crowned by guarding lions, narrates different episodes of Catalans who played a role in the discovery of America. This is perhaps to honor the fact that Catalans believe Columbus to be from their homeland although most historians consider him Italian.
Ahead on the left-hand side of the Ramblas towards Montjuïc, at Plaça Porta de la Pau 1, the mid-13th century Drassanes Reials (Royal shipyards) stand proudly as the largest and most complete surviving medieval dry-docks in the world. In the 1660s under military jurisdiction, this shipyard was used as an arsenal and fort. The army will remain in the area adding different fortified complexes until 1935, when these extensions will be demolished. These shipyards now house the Museu Marítimo (Naval Museum) showing off the rich Catalan seafaring history. Among its collection is an interesting display of Mallorcan maps, ship figureheads, treasure chests and model ships, the most outstanding being a replica of the Galera La Real, the galley Don Juan of Austria used in the 1571 Battle of Lepanto, a ship on which was the soldier Miguel de Cervantés Saavedra. Two famous documents are also found here: the Llibre del Consulat del Mar, the World‚s first maritime code, as well as a map drawn by Americo Vespucci.
Take a look at the replica of Narcis Monturiol’s 1860 submarine, Ictineo, on the grounds at the entrance.
On the Rambla Santa Mónica, on your right at nos. 4-6 is a typical Wax Museum (Museu de Cera) in a 19th century building, The Café Bosc de les Fadas (Fairy Forest) down the passage on the right, may be of interest for lovers of fairy talish decor in a dark, Wizard of Ozzy forest. On the left is the overly refurbished 17th century convent transformed into the Centre d’Art Santa Mónica that shows temporary contemporary art exhibitions.
This part of the Ramblas has undergone massive modifications since the 15th to 18th centuries when it was the major area for the production of artillery. Now, the red light district, it also welcomes a craft street market on the weekends and holidays.
Further up, as we approach the Plaça del Teatre, and where street artists exhibit their work, is the Rambla dels Caputxins. This street used to be the theatre district of Barcelona. Today, the Teatro Principal (Ramblas 27-29) is the sole survivor. In front of this neoclassical theatre, turning its back to the University Pompeu Fabra’s Faculty of Journalism and Business, is a carved Serafi Pitarra –his real name was Frederich Soler-- the founder of modern Catalan theater, oblivious to the pigeons decorating his crown.
During the French Revolution, many famous refugees, such as Stendhal, Pirandello, George Sand and Chopin, found exile on this part of the Ramblas.
Down c/ Nou de La Rambla at no. 3, you will come across Antoni Gaudi’s majestic Palau Güell. Built between 1886 and 1890 for his patron Count Eusebi Güell as an extension of his patron’s father’s humble house on the Ramblas, it was also meant for Spain’s first Universal Exposition in 1888.
The six-storey mansion (including a basement) is conceived around a bright 80m2 central room from which all-adjoining space stem. All the details are of great interest, for instance the impressive wrought iron entrance that incorporates the owner’s initials or the metal bird crouched over the stylised Catalan coat of arms. Gaudi also designed the furniture, some of which is now found in his Museum in Park
Güell. The roof is without a doubt the most beautiful landscape of twisted sculptures in Barcelona, only rivalled by Casa Milà, another of Gaudi’s masterpieces. It has been declared Universal Cultural Heritage by the UNESCO since 1984.
The next stop off the Ramblas takes us into a courtyard called Placa Reial. This 19th century square named after the Catholic Kings (Isabela and Ferdinand) was inspired by Napoleonic planned residential projects, with neoclassical painted buildings, arcades, palm trees and sidewalk cafes bordering the square, somewhat reminiscent of Seville. In the middle, an iron fountain spurts over the three Graces. The street lamps were designed by a young Gaudi in 1879. To decorate them, Gaudi used the symbols of Hermes –two snakes twisted up a staff and a winged helmet—since Hermes had become the patron of the Catalan business community who had set themselves in this neighbourhood. Ironically, the merchants left the area a few years later for the new promising Eixemple.
During the 1960s and 1970s, the square became plagued with drug dealers, addicts, muggers, tramps, prostitutes and old over made-up transvestites. The restoration of the buildings in the 1980s and the “cleaning-up” of the square by the police force around the time of the Olympics has helped recover some of its dignity—signer-songwriter Lluis Llach has an apartment here. However, keep a strong hold on your valuables while strolling around (in the entire old part of Barcelona, in fact) as it is still one of the favourite spots of thieves.
The Gran Teatre del Liceu is the next stop on the Ramblas at nos. 61-65. It has become Spain’s greatest opera house after the city’s upper bourgeoisie of the nineteenth century came here to show their attire and listen to music. First built in 1847 over one of the many convents that line the Ramblas, it was destroyed by fire three times and remodeled to its original state. The first incident came about in the 1861, the second in 1893 when an anarchist threw two bombs in the stalls during the opening night of Rossini’s William Tell, thus avenging a colleague-anarchist who had been hung. Twenty-two people died and another thirty were wounded. At the scaffold, the anarchist shouted: “Long live anarchy!” The Liceu was devastated again in 1996 when a curtain caught fire while a set was being built. The apartment blocks next to it were also severely damaged and the Liceu took advantage of the situation to expand its premises.
Barcelona succumbed to a Wagnerian craze at the end of the 19th century, after the death of the composer, which still makes it an important Wagnerian centre. Many famous people have performed here: Ana Pavlova, Nijinski, the Diaghilev Ballet, Maria Callas, Luciano Pavarotti, Victoria de los Angeles, Pablo Casals, Stravinski, Von Karajan, Phillip Glass-Robert Wilson, and native Montserrat Caballé and José Carreras appear regularly.
In front of the Liceu, at no 74 the famous Café de l’Opera still remains a meeting place. The outdoor tables are right on the Ramblas and can serve as extra entertainment for people watching…
The Ramblas Sant Josep, better known as the Flower Ramblas, begins at Plaça de la Boqueria in the middle of which is a round colourful mosaic by Joan Miró. The corner building on the right, at no 82 is Josep Vilaseca’s modernist Casa Bruno Quadros. It was built in the 1890’s to house an umbrella shop, clearly shown by the Asian designs on the façade exhibiting parasols, fans, and a huge green dragon.
If at this point you are Rambla’d out, go down on the right to the Plaça del Pi, a medieval area that grew outside the former Roman era walls. The Catalan gothic church (also lining Plaça Josep Oriol) Basilica Santa Maria del Pi was founded in the 10th century although the present structure is mostly from 1322.
The Bar del Pi is an old style café where artists and bohemians hang out. On the weekend, there’s an art fair in this square. The small street at the end of the Plaça del Pi is Calle Petritxol., a nice spot to sip a hot chocolate--a “suizo” is with cream-- “churros” (a donut-like pastry) in one of the many typical old cafés.
Return to the Ramblas. On the left you can see the Antigua Casa Figueras, a fine delicatessen and pastry shop with a beautiful modernist mosaic façade. Right after, the Boqueria (officially known at the Mercat Sant Josep), is on e of the few art nouveau fresh produce markets in the world.
In front front of the Mercat, at no.96, is the Museu de l’Erotica (Erotic Museum). It retraces the different erotic practices through time. There’s a room with differrent memorabilia from the former “Molino”,a cabaret modelled after Le Moulin Rouge in Paris. It closed down in the late 20th century, after being a main attraction on calle Paral.lel for more than a century.
The restored baroque palace on your left Palau de la Virreina was build by a Peruvian viceroy, Manuel Amat, and named for his wife in 1778, who actually outlived him and stayed there on her own for many years. It now shows temporary exhibitions.
Past the palace, Calle del Carme leads you to the former Hospital de la Santa Creu founded in 1024. It is now home to different cultural institutions, amongst which is an art school and city’s public library.
From Calle del Carme take Calle dels Angels up to the big open space. The MACBA (Museu d’Art Contemporari de Barcelona) was built by Richard Meier. Around the corner going up Calle Montalegre is the Casa de la Caritat, an ancient orphanage turned in to an exhibition hall. Go back to the Calle d’Elisabets straight down to the Ramblas. This is the Rambla dels Estudis, named after the university that used to stand there. Nowadays it’s an open bird and small animal market, which is why locals call it “la Rambla dels ocells”, or the Bird Rambla. On the corner, you can see the Esglèsia de Belén, begun in 1681 and right across it, the arcaded 18th century Palau Moya, which, on the ground floor, now houses a cultural bookshop. The illustrated tiles above the fountain on the corner of Calle Portaferrissa show the gate and the market of what medieval Barcelona looked like.
Beside the hotel Rivoli is the Café Moka. In 1937 it was occupied by civil guards who were shot on by George Orwell and his POUM friends from the roof of the building across the street.
The next stretch is Rambla Canaletes with its iron fountain which if you drink from it, the saying is that you will always stay in Barcelona. Ahead is the Plaça Catalunya, the city’s central square where not much is worth seeing, but which is the chore of the city and a popular meeting place, and where the main activities are passing through, lying around on the grass or feeding pigeons.
From Plaça Catalunya you may well want to turn around to contemplate the historical promenade you have just strolled. Just imagine that many people have rambled up and down this famous stretch of land, some of them well-known. Just to name a few: Christopher Columbus, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso. Cervantés, Albeniz, Pablo Casals, Enrique Granados, Montserrat Caballé, Joan Miro, Garcia Lorca, Somerset Maugham, George Orwell, Saint Francis of Assis, Geraldine Chaplin, the Dalai Lama, Charlie Rivel, Max Aub, Luigi Pirandello, Stendhal, George Sand, Chopin, Quevedo, Casanova, Le Corbusier, Einstein, Manuel de Falla, Rubinstein, Stravinski, Paul Eluard, HansArp, Marinetti, Pablo Neruda, Alexander Calder, Antonio Machin, Jean Genet, Walter Benjamin, Mario Vargas Llosa, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Robert Hughes, Andre Malraux, Franz Liszt…and you!